Now this is more my style...Southern Chile!

...And so I took the night bus 12 hours South to Valdivia, a change of plans, but a choice that I needed to make in order to truly know Chile. I arrived very early in the morning, walked all over town with my monster backpack, and found the perfect hostel. A funky old house with the most coziest of vibes...wood burning fireplaces AND A GUITAR! Ahhhh que perfecto! I could have stayed here all winter long, easy. Valdivia is famous for its beer, its chocolate, and its fish market with the most ginormous of lobo marinos on the planet just chillin on the docks. They are rediculously awesome. I must have passed hours staring into their monsterous eyes in complete infatuation, total awe.

Without a doubt, one of the best things about travel is the people we cross paths with. While in Valdivia I met a lot of very cool travelers- but especially was blessed to meet my Swedish friend Kristoffer, a brilliant musician with a voice like Ray Lamontagne, Tracy Chapman, and Robin Pecknold all mixed into one. Absolutely haunting. And I had the best fish of my life here (gracias Hernan!), which is quite the claim because my dad is a fisherman! Don´t worry papa, I have smuggled some Salmon across the border for you. jaja Verdad.

From Valdivia, I travelled to Chiloe, an island actually seperated culturally from Chile. On the bus I met 2 musicians from Concepcion that belong to a brotherhood and travel around the world playing music and living by certain principles. My favorite: humility. What a random thing to receive a private concert in the back of a bus. Only backpacking can provide such surprises! ...Full of mythology and architectural phenomenon...enter Chiloe- They have these wooded churches here built without nails; built using only wooden pegs, its crazy! The island is said to be haunted by pirates and ghosts and god knows what else...and I actually believe this to be true. In both Achau and Dalcahue, there were huge packs of dogs running after and barking like mad at ¨nothing¨...and with such intent, towards the sea. Quien sabe?! Chiloe is also famous for its ¨Curante¨, a combination of potatoes, seafood, and all types of meats cooked together wrapped in a giant leaf, and cooked in the ground. It is delicious.

And my last stop before crossing the frontier into Argentina was Puerto Varas. This town is incredibly charming, located on one of South Americas largest lakes¨Lago Llanquihue¨with an unbelievable view of Volcan Osorno. It is like magic here and one of those places I simply did not have enough time in...

I am very happy to have peered into the soul of Chile and to now, be in Bariloche, Argentina. So happy I can not even begin to express. Patagonia has me like a captive... I will be sacraficing time I originally thought to spend in Buenos Aires because I wish to stay here a bit longer. Of every place that claims to be known for their chocolate- they got nothin´! Bariloche is full of chocolate shops AND there is even a chocolate museum! Top that. Sho soy en el cielo.

Poetry, Politics, Chorrillana...cachai!?

For me, Chile is copper. The land of gentlemen and of thieves. Exploding with character. In the last 100 years, the politics of Chile is so fascinating, it has me obsessed. And the poetry! Egual. Aaaahhh CHILE...at times you have me so twisted. But what is new...I am a crazy person for the politics! The noble and revolutionary Salvador Allende, brilliantly playful lover-man Pablo Neruda, militant dictator Pinochet...to know how truly this place can make me feel you must only listen to the song ¨Pardon me¨ by Incubus. BUT- directly after you must listen to Bob Marleys ¨One Love¨. Because really, I believe that everything is going to be alright.

Hmmm...what have I been doing aside from eating and drinking cheap wine...?

I began my time in Arica, famous for its war with Peru, Eifel built infrastructure, and the gringo wave. AND of course my homie Ariel who not only took care of me, but taught me everything that came through his sporatic mind. Cheers to you my friend! And next he took me to Iquique with his Aunt-and I didn´t really like that place. Truly ssshhhady. However if you go to the beach, it is most definetely beautiful and it is a no-tax zone! Which means A LOT in Chile because there is normally 19% tax on everything!!! Aaaaahhyyy, que loco-

One thing that is impossible to miss in Chile is the grunge scene. Punk rockers, skater, lovers of the INK, long hair and black clothings, this state of expression that Seattle witnessed 20 years ago. And the language! Cachai is a word born in Chile that means ¨understand?¨ And Chilenos connect everything and rarely use ¨s¨ - maomeno. Big fans of the diminutive. hahaha so great, I DIG.

San Pedro de Atacama is the driest dessert in the world. This place is especially touristy but very cool. Adobe buildings, crazy excursions, amazing food...but the best part about this place for me was the 2 Danish girls I met. Te amo chicas! And it was a pleasure to travel with both of you.

SANTIAGO is where I found a real connection to Chile and Valparasio only made me intoxicated. In Santiago you are surrounded by the mountains, greenery (gracias los dios!!!), and 1973. And in Valparaiso (SA most important port) creativity is at its best. There was never a plan for this city-it just became in all its random, colorful, architectural GLORY. ¨Isla Negra¨, one hour by bus from Valpo, where Pablo Neruda had his favorite house and is also buried was my favorite museum that I have ever been to. And in the area known for its beautiful parks and beaches ¨Vina del Mar¨- I was robbed by 3 gypsies. At this time, I have never felt so let down by myself and so desperate to love when I felt somewhat violent. I really wanted to retaliate. But no-in the face of negativity it is the most important time to create positivity. Creo que. I never want to lose my hope in the human race, and therfore I will continue to look people in the eyes and I will continue to treat all people with respect- but I will never trust a gypsy. I swear.

In every hardship that I have faced on my journey, I must say that I have been lucky. Lucky to have friends and damn good ones too! A mis amigos todo- son incredible! SALUTE. One friend in particular ¨An-Katrina¨ of Denmark taught me that we are always alone when it comes down to it...and ironically, I taught her that we are never alone- Que bbuuuuuueeeno! hahaha. When we were walking down the street about to wish eachother luck and go our seperate ways after days of adventure, she expressed that we are really never alone...and there you have it. VERDAD.

Today, I am in Valdivia...of the South- on a search for the soul of Chile (esta tan hermoso aqui!). I will be travelling further South to the island of Chiloe and then it is BARILOCHE, Argentina! AND I plan to snowboard! Aaahhhhh I can´t wait! And I love you all more than ever- you better believe. Suerte-